Look what's blooming in January!

New Year's Resolutions

Well, it was a close shave, but the girls caught the 11:42 Narita Express this morning. We didn't mean to, but we got a late start, enjoyed several wrong-way moments in Shinjuku station, but inspite of that, managed to get everyone on the waiting train car. I of course, burst into tears as soon as I said good-bye to them all. I tearfully found the train I was to take home, when Robin called and invited me out for lunch. As I accepted, I complained to him that I felt like a bloated whale after eating my way through Tokyo for the last 3 weeks non-stop. My New Year's Resolution is to eat less, completely cut out desserts, and make sure I get plenty of exercise. Thankfully, the exercise isn't a problem in walk-everywhere Japan. And fun. I want to have more fun. I am now a fun junkie.

We ate a delicious curry restaurant very close to his office. It wasn't a huge amount of food, just a bowl with rice and very delicious chicken curry. No dessert! There are some things that have changed for me over the last 3 weeks. I really am having fun getting around, looking in shops, feeling confident, understanding the Japanese of 2 year olds. It's a feeling of competence that I honestly haven't enjoyed since I stepped off the plane in Japan on August 14. As little as I know about Tokyo, Japanese culture and getting around, I knew more than my visitors, and that made me a teeny tiny expert. It's a hoot to see this place through the eyes of visitors. Anyway, feeling my new found confidence, and new found frustration at not really understanding how this city is laid out, I decided to walk home from Akasaka (where Robin works) to Oyamacho, where we reside. Plus- I would be true to my resolution to get exercise. Robin told me it was about 4 and a half miles- "No sweat," I thought. That's like doing the rim trail and the gorge trail together plus a little more, something I've done on several occasions. So I set out. The sun came out. I saw places I'd never seen before. I wasn't really afraid of getting lost, because I knew I could hop on a train if I needed to. I followed the street signs over the road that point cars in the right direction. I was right on track until I came to Shibuya. (We live in Shibuya, but not the city part) I got completely lost, couldn't find the park, saw no metro signs, and was walking around an area I didn't even know existed. I did manage to find a backstreet that had several "Love Hotels" on it. They had seperate room rates listed out front: a "rest" rate that was for 3 hours, and a "stay" rate which I assume meant over night. There were some interesting displays in the windows out front. The French maid lives on in the imaginations of Japanese men, it seems.

Anyway...I digress. I was seriously lost, my feet were starting to ache, and I had called Robin, but what he was telling me didn't feel right. I saw a young woman stepping out of her house, and waited until she was right near me, and I asked her in Japanese, "Excuse me. Yoyogi Park, where is it?" Nakamura-san, my Japanese teacher would have been proud of me! The young woman pointed in the general direction of the Park and in English asked me where I was from. She told me she would "walk with." She explained that she was on her way to the Olympic Swimming Pool right by the park, and we made our way back there. Boy, was I LOST! I think she was delighted to have the opportunity to practice English, and I found out that her name is Yumi, she works in Real Estate, she loves Tokyo, grew up in the country, has been to NYC several times (and loves it!) and studies English after work. I think that means she takes classes. She was a delight, and so nice. I tried out several of my Japanese phrases on her. When I finally got my bearings, she shook my hand several times and we parted like old friends. Today's mistake of getting lost was a lovely opportunity.

Kabuki Theatre

Here's where the girls and I went this morning:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kabuki-za

The Kabuki-za is a HUGE theatre with an interesting history. We went there with the intent to catch a 21 minute Kabuki Act. When we came up out of the subway station, we were right AT the theatre, and got in the line that went to the box office. There was a man with a sign at the end of the line, and as we stood there for a moment, he must have known we were clueless. He explained to us that we were standing in the "members only" line, and beckoned us towards the correct line. Ah yes- the line for the "one act" audience members. We bought the cheapest tickets for the one act which was mostly dancing about sake, spirits from the ocean and a sake seller. The theatre has a 2 row section way up on the 4th floor across the back for the "one-act whimps." Claire and I got the earphone English commentary receivers that helped us know what we were watching.

The performance today was lovely to watch. The costumes were so colorful, the movement graceful, the music wonderful hear and see being performed. This was an all male show- the musicians were all lined up on two tiers across the back of the stage, sitting motionless, except for their string plucking, drum hitting and singing. I loved the singing. Quite high in places, and there was some strain to their sound, but I think it was supposed to sound that way. And during the singing there were 2 or 3 guys who were making funny sounds, at seemingly random intervals in time, that were ascending in pitch, like a surprised sounding "Ohh!" It made me want to giggle, but I loved this new sounding singing.

The sake spirits in their white faces and bright red long wigs danced into the sake establishment, drank until they were tipsy, and were so grateful to the sake seller that they magically made his sake vessel overflow for all eternity. They danced happily inebriated back into the sea.

We went to leave as soon as it was over, although everyone around us was sitting comfortably. When I tried to return the earphone receiver, the woman behind the counter pointed to a paper in her hand that said, "You may stay for another show." So we did. Or at least we stayed for part of the second one. This had a more complicated story, a very large cast with lots of cross-dressers, dialogue, and humor. The musicians were behind screens, so were much less conspicuous. The girls had an appointment to tour the Imperial Palace at 1:30, so we had to leave at noon.

An interesting thing: the people who were in the regular sections were given bags with lunch bentos in them, and some people were eating the contents of their bento with hashi (chopsticks) while they waited for the show to start. If you wanted to, you could make a full day of Kabuki. The first act of the matinee begins at 11:00, and the last act finally ends around 4:00. They provide the food, the potty breaks between acts, and the cool entertainment. Then in the evening, the tickets are much more expensive, and they do it all over again.

Engrish, anyone?

More great stories

If you like reading my blog entries, check out my niece's take on her visit here. She is a VERY clever writer with a fabulous descriptive vocabulary.

She loves describing food, and has earned points for being very adventurous!

Also she has a photo line up of our "bean paste faces." It is not to be missed.

http://t-shirt-savior.livejournal.com/

Shoes.

I am still pretty obsessed with footwear. I love looking at the outrageous shoes, boots and wild variety of styles I encounter everytime I step out. I am now comfortable enough to take pictures unobtrusively, and plan to share some of the sights with you. So today I will share some pics of shoes on a woman on the train, and shoes we found in an underground lair in Harajuku.

I am guessing that the styles will get more exciting with the approach of spring, so stay tuned.

It's hard to tell, but these are red velvet shoes. Eat your heart out Dorothy Gale.
We've been having a discussion as to what "Group Treedom" is.
These metallic beauties are often seen paired with jeans.
Imagine colors 2 shades more vivid, and you have the real things.
Leopard print has to be my all time favorite!