Yoyogi Park

I took advantage of the lovely cooler morning to get out and walk today. I went to the bus stop to meet the walking group, but no one was going this morning. I realized that I was going to have to go alone, and was wishing I had my ipod, but told myself -don't be a baby, just go! Actually, it was rather nice to be alone, and by the time I got to the park (it takes about 15 minutes to get there) I was happily lost in thought. Today is a Japanese holiday. I believe it is a day off to celebrate the Autumnal Equinox. It is the first really cool day- not cool like Upstate-NY cool, but it's in the mid 70's and feels heavenly-I'll take it. Since it was a holiday, the streets were much quieter, less busy and there was hardly any traffic on my way to the park. This really made me happy! The park was filled with more than it's usual number of joggers, walkers and bikers, but it is such a large park, it still didn't seem crowded. This morning I heard some lovely sounds, so I was glad I hadn't worn my ipod. I heard a wooden flute through the trees that was so beautiful and mournful it made me teary, a guitar, some kind of traditional Japanese looking guitar and a guy playing the blues harmonica. The blues harmonica put a smile back on my face. Then there is the guy I seen frequently who takes advantage of an area of the park that has a type of wooden platform by tap dancing on it, while he over looks the pond. I was also serenaded by a few of Japan's large crow population. The sounds were many.

The people here are really passionate about some things. Today I had a chance to observe two of their great passions: dogs and baseball. In the park today there were hundreds of dogs, including an amazing variety of breeds. I saw a toy fluffy miniature something in some one's shoulder bag, and 2 Russian Wolfhounds who were easily taller than I, if they were to stand up on their hind legs. Yoyogi Park has a fantastic fenced in area for dogs. It is divided into two sections, presumably one side for larger dogs and one side for toys. I'm guessing here, because I couldn't read the signs...The large dog side this morning was busy- Akita, Whippet, Chihuahua, Doberman, Wolfhound, Beagle, Retrievers, Labs, Burmese Mountain, Mini Schnauzer, Jack Russell, and Toy Terriers of all kinds. There were small dogs in the big dog side, but NO big dogs in the small dog side. I stopped to marvel at the dogs all seeming to get along, when a whippet started to give chase and and upset the balance of harmony. All heck broke loose. There was a swirling snarling mass of doggie mayhem going on, (it looked like a bunch of big dogs were trying to bite a tiny white and brown terrier of some kind. He was running under them, between their legs and they were ganging up on him) while owners were trying bravely to break it up. Meanwhile in a corner right near me, a beautiful BIG Burmese Mountain Dog was happily chewing on something while a squirrely little Jack Russell Terrier was humping away at her like mad! It didn't seem to bother the big dog, but the Japanese woman who owned the Jack Russell had to keep pulling him off the Burmese. The Mountain Dog's owner was a Japanese guy who looked non-plussed. The owners didn't talk or look each other in the eye, as far as I could tell. This went on for some while. There is some comfort in observing the universal behavior of dogs and people.

Beyond the dog area, I could see a large group of boys in their baseball uniforms practicing running and throwing. I could hear whistles blowing as their coach was having them perform relays. On my way out of the park, I passed a small group practicing their throwing and was close enough to read their shirt logo. They are "The NAUGHTY boys." The NAUGHTY boys! It is a huge group- occupying 3 areas of the park with many grown men who coach them. I am sure there are games going on all day today. The NAUGHTY boys. Do you suppose they know what that means?
Made me laugh.

A couple of weeks ago, Robin and I were invited to dinner and karaoke. The dinner was in a place called (I think) Zen Shabu. After removing our shoes, we entered into a private eating area through sliding panel doors and into a sunken seating area. We walked across cushions, and then sat on the floor- but there was a place for our feet to hang, so we didn't have to crouch or sit cross legged. I am getting to old to do that comfortably for a long while. Anyway-there were big pans of boiling water on the table, and we were served very thinly sliced beef and a variety of vegetables to cook ourselves. It was delicious. After dinner we walked across the street to a karaoke place. Everything in Tokyo is built either up or down. Everything is stacked. The building we went to seemed small, and we took an elevator to the 7th floor, where there were about 5 or 6 private rooms. Since we had 11 in our party, we had the largest room on the floor. In it were tables, booth seating as well as chairs, and everything in the room was black. The lights were low and there was a huge screen on one wall that not only displayed the lyrics to the songs but was constantly showing seemingly random videos. My favorite moment was when we were all singing New York, New York at the top of our lungs, and the video background was clearly showing someplace beachy in California, complete with palm trees and bikinis. Lots of beer is consumed while participating in karaoke. Most people need it to get their courage up to sing in front of people. Not so the Tokyo Plosses. Robin did an outstanding Mustang Sally (we all did back up) and Frank's version of The Lady is a Tramp. I went for Little Eva, Huey Lewis, and Earth Wind and Fire. Let's Groove, and September- for those of you who are Earth Wind and Fire fans. I boldly go for the high parts! Oddly enough, most of the guys from Corning sang Country Western or Guns 'n' Roses, so there was not a lot of sing-a-long with Alice, if you know what I mean. The most interesting moment of the evening came when I excused myself to use the bathroom, and had a chance to hear through the closed doors what was going on in other rooms on our hallway. It sounded pretty awful- much like the two cats that were facing off in our backyard last week. They were yowling in unison. Not to be too boastful or anything, but I think Americans in general are pretty good singers. Must be all that quality music education they are receiving.

It was fun, but, as a musician and singer I don't have that closet burning desire to be on American Idol. I don't live for those moments when I finally get the mic. I have plenty of outlets for my voice and music. I imagine that for some people, karaoke is their ONLY opportunity to sing. To live that dream. Think about how singing makes you feel so good. How it releases negative feelings and revives your soul. Choral music is very popular here in Japan. That's a very cool thing, in my opinion. It's one more manifestation of the Japanese Group culture. Matt sings ALL THE TIME while he's home. I've stopped shushing him. I figure if the neighbors don't like it, they'll let us know. Yesterday we were singing OLD MAN RIVER from Showboat together. He loves the low notes. The two of us make a great pair.

Until next time,
Cheers to All,

Roller Coaster Ride

Hello,

Back in July, Corning provided us with 3 days of cultural training to prepare us for this big move. Although much of it was geared toward Robin and doing business in Japan, a lot of it was certainly applicable to me. Everyone we met, from the admissions director of the boys' school to the cultural trainers to many friends back in the States would look at me and ask, "But what are YOU going to do??" Those of you who did ask that question probably remember me replying with a flip answer about relaxing, or getting pedicures or taking art lessons, or whatever. There is no end of opportunity here- today I just got back from a 9th and 10th grade parent PTA meeting, which was OK- but not really my thing. I've been to several coffees, been invited to a Corning "Ladies Luncheon" and other women's groups that are very supportive of the Tokyo community through fund raising for various causes. One must be careful not to get over extended here.

The cultural trainers all talk about, diagram, and describe in great detail something called the "Cultural Adjustment Process."
Here's a quote from a page with the sine wave like emotional roller coaster chart:

"Since Culture Shock is a sign that the expatriate is beginning to let go of home culture and engage with the new culture, the appropriate response is not to try to eliminate the culture shock but rather to try to manage the stress it causes."
So this morning when I woke up, I had been having the most wonderful dream. (the first happy one that I can remember since coming over here- the others have been disturbing) I was in a room with all my cats and dogs who were crazy happy to see me. Even as I type this I am getting all emotional, because I miss them terribly. I know in my head that I am being ridiculous, because they are all in GREAT places- (thanks to Brenda, Mom and Anne!) but I see my irrational outbursts of tears as a sign that yes, indeed I am on the first downward dip of the "adjustment process." Another sign is that at the PTA coffee this morning, when a friendly woman who had just introduced herself to me asked me, "So how are you??" I burst into tears AGAIN. It wasn't one of those questions that was the polite inquiry, she looked me in the eyes and really ASKED me. It took me a couple of minutes to compose myself and she said knowingly, "You'd better be with me." We sat in groups and chatted. There are lots of kids apparently who are in the 10th grade with Matt who are also going through the downs and ups, but I never see any Moms acting kooky like I do. (mortification!) Everyone understands. That's helpful anyhow. The woman's name is Karen and she invited me to her home for lunch, and as I was with my friend Terry, she came along too. This woman could have told me to book a ticket to New Zealand, and I would have run right out and done it, such was my state of mind. Karen's house is an art gallery. She deals in paintings- and every inch of her walls were covered with fantastic new art. You can view her collection by going to: www.toriizakaart.com. She has a marvelous collection, but we couldn't stay long. It was just really kind of her to be so friendly and reassuring. Terry and I hoofed it back to our subway line in a hurry, as she needed to get home to meet a delivery. I decided to stop at the store on the way home to pick up some things for supper and got through the line at the store only to discover that I didn't have enough cash in my wallet. *****( MORE MORTIFICATION!) I explained that I didn't have enough cash by holding out what I had, blushed an unnatural shade of purple and ran out of the store telling them I'd be right back. (Did the checkout girl understand? We don't know.) I was instantly transported in my mind to the ShurSave where sits my own personal CFCU cash machine, and kindly people who know me and speak my language. (I once filled up my gas tank and forgot to pay. The next day Brent called me on the phone, spoke to me by name and reminded me of what I had done- I ran over, paid for my gas, apologized profusely and we all had a good laugh.) No so the Japanese. Appearances are everything. I had shamed myself. I had seen the way the Japanese women behind me in line were looking at me. While I was making my frantic way to the cash machine in the station, I started to see the humorous side of what I had done. Looked ridiculous -who cares? Nobody knows me. They expect gaijin to make blunders of all kinds. Done something not to proper procedure- it's good to shake up their predictable world! Turns out she had understood at least a little, because my basket of groceries was on the floor behind her, waiting for my return.

How did I get from cultural adjustment to cats and dogs and crying uncontrollably to being ridiculous? It's all part of the stress that everyone tells you about before you come over, the stress the quote tells you that you have to learn how to manage, but you just can't understand it until you are living here day by day. Things that are easy at home are hard here. At first, it's FUN! Wow! Look at all this unrecognizable food! Let's look at a MAP! It's FUN to figure out how to get places! Walking home with groceries every day? New! Fun! And good for cardio health! Yesterday I missed out on a luncheon because I couldn't get the computer to print out a map to the place to meet, and by the time I was ready to go, it was too late. I would have been too late. Today, what I really wanted was my car, the ShurSave and a bag of oreos. I wanted to feel like the competent, functioning, professional individual that I know I am, or was, at home. (I kind of like that about me.)

So for those of you who have been reading about our fairly tame adventures so far in Japan, I apologize for sending something not-so-happy. I told myself I wouldn't gripe out loud, but this is all a part of "the experience." The last few days have been hard. For a variety of reasons. However, EVERYONE who's in the know tells me it will get better.

Here's a little wisdom from Swami Dhyan Giten, a quote that I copied from Karen Wiggins at the MS library. (Don't even get me started on how much I miss everyone at school...sniff again....)

Life is our teacher. Life communicates with us all the time and it is a lesson to see how life continually has led me to the people I need to meet, to the situations I need to experience, and to the places I need to be. There has never been any real reason to worry since all small individual rivers are already on their way to the ocean, to the Whole. It is not about swimming, it is about relaxing and to float with the river in a basic trust that life already leads towards the sea of consciousness, towards the Whole.

I think when I asked Karen if I could have a copy of that, I was aware it would come in handy in times of stress. The time is now. Relax, float, and trust. Easier said than done.

next time: Our Tokyo karaoke experience. I promise.

Cheers to all,

Good News

Ta Da! The horrendous heat and humidity has broken! Yesterday when I got home from my first haircut abroad, I gleefully turned OFF the air conditioning that has been running almost non-stop for a month, and ran around opening windows like a crazy woman. Last evening, I sat on the floor, next to the sliding glass door in our living room and read the paper while the cool breeze wafted over me. I was in heaven. We slept with the windows open. A first. Early in the evening it was pretty noisy, but later it got quiet and I don't remember being disturbed by noise at all.

Let me tell you about my hair cut. I made my first appointment at the Tokyo American Club, partly because I knew where it was, partly because I knew they could speak English, but mostly because I'm a big weenie about my hair. The walk to TAC is about 10 minutes from the subway station, and I celebrated the cooler temperature outside yesterday by wearing jeans for the first time. (Most women don't wear shorts here, they dress in long sleeves in 90 degrees, wear nylons IN THE SUMMER, and generally wear more clothes than I could possibly stand- our thermostats must be set differently) I was worried about being late, so I really booked up the hill to make the appointment on time. I was quite warmed up when I got there, right on time, and rather wishing I had stuck to shorts. They were ready for me as soon as I walked in the door. I deposited my earrings in a little box with a lid. The shampoo girl (for she was young) wrapped me first in a green cotton coat much like a hospital gown. It had a fold over front and tied on the side. Then at the sink, she put plastic around my shoulders to keep me dry. Then finally I was covered in the usual- the large, ties around your neck sheet of some sort. Oh my goodness, but I was hot. I had already been quite warm from the walk up the hill, and now they were wrapping me up like a sausage. When she was ready to shampoo my hair, she put a velvet lap blanket over my legs- which up until this day had been happily bare and free. I knew my limitations and politely (I hope) asked to take it off, and explained that I didn't care if my jeans got wet, which they wouldn't because of all the other stuff that was already on me. After a nice long and thorough scrubbing, it was time to get the cut. My hair was cut by a very nice, very gentle man named Hiro. As you already know, I love to chat with strangers, so we had a very nice conversation. The most interesting fact I learned was that there are more dogs in Tokyo than children. He explained that Tokyo is not an easy place to raise a child, so many people chose to have dogs instead. My feeling concerning that kind of choice is at least children eventually learn to flush and put themselves out. (that is, if you are one of those lucky parents I envy) Hiro gave me the exact- I mean exact perfect hair cut that I had described in great detail to him. He was very slow and careful. It's short, but it's the cut I wanted. Here's the best part of all. AFTER the cut, they took me back to the sink, shook my hair out and rinsed it AGAIN, to release all the little cut pieces that you usually run home to shower out. After the rinse, a blow dry, a great style, THEN- a shoulder massage. When my eyes rolled back into my skull, he was concerned that I didn't like it- I laughed and told him he'd never get me OUT of the chair. Hiro explained that the shoulder massage is "very Japanese." Bring it on.

Today I had a Furoshiki welcome lunch with an acquaintance who gave me about 10 lbs of advertisements, magazines and information about living in Tokyo. It is similar to the "Welcome Wagon" visits that used to go on when I was a kid. Do people still do that? I have so much to learn about this city.

Saturday night is Nathan's 17th birthday dinner out on the town. I'm guessing I can find a place for us to eat in one of the many guides I now own. Tomorrow night I have been invited to accompany Robin and some other couples from Corning for dinner and karaoke. The last (and first) time I did karaoke was with Tburg school colleagues in July at an establishment in Hector called "Big Johnson's." It was much fun. Melissa and Penny did me a favor by taking us all out there. At least I know what to expect, although I bet the local regulars won't be as colorful as the ones at Big J's.

This weekend is one of the weekends when they take their little local neighborhood shrines out on long timbers, with many people lifting, and jostle them through the streets. This is accompanied by lots of shouting, singing, noise making and revelry. It's a competition between neighborhoods, and a show of strength. I will get pictures and more information to share.

Take Care.

Corn, etc...

Hi Folks,

The same day we encountered the shrine, we also came upon this futuristic sculpture on the front of one of the buildings.

This just in: I am now able to negotiate the subways on my own! I've made it home twice from different points in the city, and have even had to change trains, successfully! I'm trying to scope out the good places to take visitors to shop, walk and see the sights. It will probably take me another month before I'm ready to take a visitor around. But then--bring it on!!

I've had the opportunity to meet some women from the neighborhood who go walking every morning. I accompanied them on Friday and learned more about the area and how to get around. As we walk, they give tips, advice and great suggestions on where to go to shop and eat. I have gotten much more comfortable just walking around being me, the slightly large, grey haired "gaijin." Going to the grocery store is kind of fun now. No longer is it the scary, nervous trip it was last week. In addition, there is a nice man who drives a fruit and vegetable truck whom I've met. Several days a week he parks right outside our house and knocks on the door. The first day I went out to look, I needed groceries any way, and bought sweet corn, a red pepper, a melon, the biggest apple you've ever seen and a strange looking pear. Well, the corn was the best corn I'VE EVER EATEN. It was amazing! So the next time he came, I took my phrase book out and tried to tell him that the "corn was good." I think I got the corn part right, but the rest made him look confused. I asked him how to say all the things in the truck, and he kindly and patiently gave me pronunciation lessons on all the items in the truck. He also helped me count out the money. Of course, it was all too much too fast, but I enjoyed the interaction and he was very nice. At the end I thanked him and said in Japanese, "See you later." I think he was surprised.

I will be taking Japanese lessons soon, either in a class or with a tutor who comes to the house. Haven't decided which yet. I'm going to try to get into a class that starts Tuesday called Taiko Drumming. You've probably seen pictures of it. The drums are HUGE and it's an aerobic workout just to play them! Do a google search on it...The music teacher in me wants to be able to bring back some authentic drumming experience. I will also have the opportunity to rehearse and perform the Brahms Requiem with the Tokyo International Singers. Rehearsals start in a week. It will be a great way to meet people in the community, not just expatriates. That particular requiem has some extra special meaning to me, so I am looking forward to finally learning and performing it.

Watch the weather! There is a typhoon heading our way. One of the meteorologists I saw on the CNNj said they thought it's path may be bringing it right through Tokyo! Such excitement, and we've only been here for 2 weeks!!

Nathan's 17th birthday is the 15th of September, and we are planning a trip to Fuji-san that day. We are going at the very end of the hiking season. If the weather cooperates, we will hike part way up, late in the day, and sleep in a hut on the mountain. Then we will rise a couple of hours before dawn, hike the rest of the way, and time our arrival with the sunrise. Keep your fingers crossed. Lots of things have to be in our favor for this to work. If we manage to do it, I will have pictures galore to send you. If not, we'll go and take pictures of the mountain, anyway so you'll win either way! Happy Birthday, Nato. Nato is his Japanese name at school.
Our names are pronounced Arisu, Robin, Naezan, and Massu Purosu.

I hope this finds you well! Ja-mata! (See you later!)

Shrine

Hi!
On our way home from the Tokyo American Club today, we walked past this shrine. Next to it on the left side is a cemetery. It's place has been preserved while high rise buildings surround it on all sides. That is modern Tokyo. The old shrines are tucked in here and there all over the city. They are beautiful oases of the past.