Going to the movies

It was a rainy steamy afternoon in Tokyo and we decided to go see Star Trek. No need to gush here, but it was fantastic! L.O.V.E.D. it. I watched the original series at 4:00 in the afternoon almost every day after school when it was on TV years ago.

We almost didn't find the theater in time, and after we got our tickets, it was still a bit of a mystery as to which door to go through, as there were 4 theater doors. We went into theater 1. I was skeptical. I looked around to see what kind of crowd was in the hall...there were many white haired and older people there. Very few foreigners and some younger people. I was quite nervous that we were in the wrong place. Being functionally illiterate is a real annoyance sometimes. I expressed my doubts as to our being in the right place.

But we were! I was kind of surprised at the movie goers in the crowd, but by now nothing in Japan should really surprise me! After the movie, while washing my hands in the ladies' room...a friendly woman spoke to me in Japanese. I am pretty sure she said something like,
"That was a great movie, wasn't it?" Her eyes were smiling and she looked really happy. I should have said "You bet!" But because I wasn't completely sure, I used my default response, "I'm so sorry, I don't understand."

What fun. Star Trek with Japanese sub-titles. It was like coming home.

James Bond at the Forbidden City

I am usually pretty good at identifying famous voices when I hear them. So I was really amused when we went to the Forbidden City and I discovered that coming through my left ear by way of the English guide recording was the voice of Roger Moore, 007. At least I am fairly certain is was him. You see, when I came of age, he was James Bond, and for a long while I thought he was the ONE TRUE BOND. I know better now, or at least have seen all of them, and appreciate their different attributes. I actually think Roger Moore was a bit too stuffy and stilted as 007. But he has a marvelous voice.

When I was in Taiwan and became really fascinated with the little roof parades to nowhere, I asked our guide about the corner statues and she could only tell me that they imitated the roofs at the Forbidden City. Well, I was delighted when James Bond told me that there are always an uneven number of them, and the more statues there are, the more powerful the person for whom the building is built. So the Empress has maybe 7 or 9. The Emperor had eleven. It is most amusing to me that they are always led by that little dude riding a chicken. (Yes, James Bond confirmed that point for me!)
007 also described the whole culture of Imperial concubines. Families would send their girls, aged 12-17 or so, to the gate of the Forbidden City on certain days to be selected for duty. If they passed the test, they would become concubines to the Emperor, if not they would be wed to members of the Imperial Court. Details may be a bit foggy, as we were fading in the heat and with hunger, but I think one Emperor had 27 concubines, and another actually died from over-indulgence of concubines. (Or so the legend goes...)I say, it served him right.

The Forbidden City is impressive, and tells the fascinating story of Imperial China, but there are far more beautiful places in Japan, in my opinion. Certainly better kept places. It was really crowded, it was hard to walk in tight places and very hot. We left after only seeing half the grounds in search of water, shade and lunch. To quote my son Matt...as far as the Forbidden city goes..."meh."

The Red Capitol Club, Beijing

You know you are getting into trouble when a taxi driver has to make not one but two phone calls to figure out how to get you where you want to go. Our Tokyo friend Betsy, who used to live in Beijing had recommended that we go to a place called the The Red Capitol Club. She had warned us that it was down a back alley and not to freak out when we were being taken there. She was wise to caution us, as I was sure we were going to meet a nasty end as we rode down this dark and twisty alley in the rain. The taxi driver stopped and asked directions, and some folks waved him on ahead. Just a few meters ahead, he stopped. We were ushered into a beautiful 200-year old courtyard house that had been carefully restored. Unfortunately, it was raining that evening, so all the courtyard furniture was piled up under the roof around the edge and the floor had water on it. But we sat in one of the outside rooms. There were only 2 other parties in the place, another Western English-speaking family, and a Japanese couple. It was dimly lit, but had lovely touches. Old lanterns, old furniture, sculpture and artwork on the walls, fountains. It was serene and quirky at the same time, since it was raining and the Japanese couple were completely drunk and disorderly. The woman was yelling to get the wait staff's attention and asking in Japanese what the heck that was on her plate. Beth and I had nearly finished our dinner, so Beth very kindly went over to their table to help translate. The poor woman was nearly incoherent and offered us wine and food. Turns out, the Japanese man works for the same company as Beth's husband, and was quite a bit less drunk than his wife, so they chatted a little in English and Japanese. Then while we waited for a taxi, we removed ourselves from the dining area to sit in the bar. The woman kept yelling, insisting that she needed a taxi NOW! Anyway, we were glad a for a few moments of peace. The bar was crammed with old velvet furniture from Mao's house/office or something. There were old radios, old books, old lamps, old furniture. It smelled like your Grandmother's parlor. Betsy had told us about a phone we could pick up and listen in on a recoding of Mao issuing orders in Chinese. Well...when I picked up the phone, I heard Mao, but at 3 times the normal speed. It was CHIPMUNK Mao, instead of CHAIRMAN Mao, and it seemed rather undignified, and rather hilarious! A nice young man from Indonesia who worked there told us that it was a really old recording system and that they didn't know how to fix it. He just shrugged as he said, "So we just leave it as it is."

Apparently, taxis are completely scarce in Beijing when it rains, so we waited for a while and it was getting late. The nice young man told us that since no taxis were to be had, their "driver" would be able to return us to our hotel. So, while trying not to listen to that little voice of sensibility that signifies possible danger, Beth and I climbed into the back seat of a gigantic pick up truck driven by another young man who seemed to need a lot of instruction to be able to get us back to the hotel. I was thinking (or rather trying not to think) "We could be in trouble here..." But true to their word, we were returned safely and quickly to our hotel. I was starting to think that the unusual is usual in China.

Random stuff from my trip...

It was Wednesday afternoon and I made my way to Narita Airport on the Narita express. Beth and I decided to meet up there. I sat and waited and started worrying when it was about a half hour before boarding when she came strolling around the corner. She had been waiting in the NWA lounge. I was slumming it in the general seating. We sat down by the gate and Beth sat next to a guy who was completely out. Snoring like a buzz saw in the next seat. Just the first of many loud body sounds we enjoyed listening to in China. This guy I had to document with my camera. Thus began some of the funny things that happened to us on our trip.

I seemed to get the serious security check at every airport while Beth breezed through. I was pulled aside immediately, my bags were searched, I was patted down (oooh baby!) and waved over by the wand, was told to take off my shoes- all this AFTER I had already gone through security. It was after walking through the door on the way to the airplane. I'm not sure if this was because we were flying to China, but whatever... While I was enjoying all this attention, BETH WAS GETTING AN UPGRADE to business class. She is GOLD elite, I'm only SILVER elite. She tried to get them to upgrade me too, even after she was seated and there was an empty seat beside her...But I told her to enjoy it, since her company doesn't routinely fly them business class.

Into economy class I went. At least I had an aisle seat. But no. There was a little girl in my seat, next to her Mommy who asked me to switch seats so that they could sit together. Of course I said yes. Didn't want to break up a family. So I was stuck in the middle of the middle between 2 guys who both took the arm rests and who poked me with their elbows repeatedly for the 3 hour flight. So I just put myself in the good music zone, shut my eyes and listened to great tunes I haven't heard in a while. When we arrived we were informed that health inspectors would be boarding the plane and checking everyone. A group of somewhat scary-looking uniformed, masked and gloved individuals boarded the plane, armed with little temperature sensors that they pointed like guns at everyone's forehead to check for fever. As they were doing this, the plane was deathly quiet except for a couple of American sounding people right behind me telling about their friends who had been quarantined for a week because someone on their plane had shown a temperature above normal. I sat there hoping no one on board was sick because there would go our trip plans...but we were lucky and everyone was released off the plane. All 4 of us in the center of the plane in my row were wearing masks. But once in China, masks were pretty rare.

Beth is a fun loving person, and bursts into song whenever something makes her think of one. It's always something I know and we finish the song together, usually successfully pulling the long forgotten lyrics out of some dusty drawer in our brains. The first one was "Hey Big Spender" in the hotel Wednesday night. The other ones were sparked on the street, in taxis and on the great wall. On the way to the Great Wall, Beth started singing a Chinese song that Grace and the driver both knew. It's called "Jao pung yo." Looking for a friend. They were singing and I was transcribing the melody into solfege and trying to get them to sing it the same way twice. This proved a little difficult so what I have is an approximation of what it must be. We asked our other guides to sing it, and it seemed to me that everyone sang it a little differently. The driver on the the way to the wall had been silent until we asked him to join in the song, which he did, tentatively at first. It seemed that everyone we met, Beth managed to make sing, dance or perform for us in some way. She just has a knack.
Some of the people we encountered on the wall were an Indian family, an older Chinese lady, kids playing cards, a young American woman who had hiked way past the safe area and who came back to report to us what she found, a British guy and his wife who seemed really lovely, a Chinese guy who like to yell to hear his echo, and a man with a donkey.


After our hike on the wall, we were pretty tired, our feet hurt and we had the opportunity to take a luge-like slide down the mountain. F.U.N.

Terra cotta soldiers of X'ian

These guys were discovered in 1974 when a local farmer was digging a well. He came up with some finger fragments and called the government. This old farmer now sits behind the counter at the souvenir shop, eating noodles.
The soldiers number over 8000, created about 2000 years ago. They have been discovered in 3 separate pits. There are many more that have yet to be uncovered, but they are trying to figure out how to preserve their colors. the first soldiers discovered had bright colorful details that oxidized when brought out of the earth.

Every soldier is unique. It is an amazing thing to see. It is a bit like looking at ghosts. They were created and buried to guard the emperor after his death. Horses and chariots, archers both standing and sitting, officers and generals...all ready for battle, or to escort the emperor on his way.




Here is a modern day soldier. I saw more soldiers in China than I ever have in the US. He is guarding the one place where there is easy access to the soldiers being repaired. A couple of years ago, a German dude, dressed like a soldier, slipped into the display and stood there for a long time. He then started moving and caused a great stir, as you can imagine.


Here we are, jumping into a photograph. This family was thrilled that we did, and wanted some posed pics with us. We each got one point for this moment. Alice our guide got in on the fun and took the cameras to catch us in the act.


This place is called the 8th Wonder of the World. It is an archeologist's dream. One gets the sense that they will be working here for at least a hundred years, excavating, putting pieces together, discovering more sites, unraveling the mysteries of the 1st Emperor of China.

X'ian

Beijing!

Impressions of China

This is the antique market we visited on Sunday morning. I got my first taste of haggling, mostly as a witness, as Anna D. did all the negotiating.

The first and most stunning thing about being in China is that I was not able to blog. I was unable to access blogspot.com. I was also unable to view links people sent me to youtube and comedy central. Ponder that for a few moments. Beth and I discussed two kinds of freedom. Freedom with a capital "F" and freedom with a small "f." I was acutely aware of the lack of Freedom, and the presence of freedom.

Although the Chinese people lack some of the Freedoms we take for granted; the freedom to blog, free speech, to gather and protest, and even choose where they will live in some situations, they seemed very comfortable in their skin. I commented to Beth how the dumpling chefs and the chefs in the kitchens carving our Peking Duck were laughing, talking and enjoying themselves while they worked. People on the streets were playing cards, large groups were doing Tai Chi in public spaces. People were singing everywhere: we heard singers on the street, we had a cab driver sing, (more to himself than to us). I heard a museum guard sing...unhappy people don't spontaneously break into song. Overall, people we met were friendly and helpful. Our young female guides were delightful. And fun. People seemed more connected to each other there than in Japan or the US. Maybe that's because their numbers are so great. There are 16 (I think) districts of Beijing and it's total land area is as big as half of Taiwan.

I longed for clear Buddha-blue skies and clean air while I was there. When I woke up Sunday morning in Shanghai, my eyelids were yellow and swollen. My throat was burning and my eyes itching. People are coughing and hacking up gobs all over the streets. But in spite of the really dismal air quality, the birds in Shanghai were jubilant this morning. There was a symphony of different bird songs from the familiar to the exotic. Please don't tell them they live in a filthy, crumbling and poisoned environment. I think it might spoil their song. Along with the people, let them remain undaunted.

TIP Oliver!

I think this is my best photo. Just a lucky shot from the extreme house right, front row. Paul Tempel as Oliver and Jack Merluzzi as Fagin.
Ahh. Time to catch up on my sleep!

Zombies from Dickens' time eat choral director's brains in Tokyo!

Oliver!

This is my friend Patty. She plays Mrs. Bedwin the house keeper. I call her Mrs. Bedlam. She makes me laugh. Hard.


Below you will see the unit set for Oliver at the Sunmall Theatre near Shinjuku.


Consider Yourself big finish


Mr. Bumble and Widow Corney


and finally, Food Glorious Food

China, here I come!

Today is important for a couple of reasons. I went back to the Chinese Embassy this morning to pick up my passport. I now have a 12 month entry permit to the People's Republic of China! Beth and I will go on the 20th for 6 days. It's really interesting going to the Chinese Embassy. There are at least 3 guys standing out front holding on to what appear to be extra long broom stick handles. At least that's the length and thickness of them. I know what they are for, and it makes me a little nervous thinking about going to a country that feels the need to arm its' Embassy Guards with whipping sticks. Robin says I should be nervous. And NOT to talk openly about "The 3 Ts" when in China. Can YOU name the 3 Ts? *(answer below)

Tonight is OPENING NIGHT for Tokyo International Players Oliver! It's been a long rehearsal process. Some of it has been wonderfully fun and some of it has been painfully frustrating. Always though, the people in the cast have been great. I have met the most lovely people from all over the world. What an opportunity for me. One I will never forget.

I have several cast members staying at the house this weekend, to save themselves having to ride trains late at night for long distances. Bill Sykes stayed here last Saturday night and proclaimed our house to be a 4 Star Hotel! I will have Mr. Sowerberry, the undertaker and one of Fagin's gang and his chorus member Mom here as well. I'm trying to stock up on breakfast items!

It is one of those glorious, low humidity days in Tokyo for which the song "Who Will Buy" was written. Let's hope lots of gaijin in Tokyo break their legs tonight!


*Tibet, Taiwan and Tienanmen Square.

Wen Wu Temple

Wen Wu Temple overlooks Sun Moon Lake. It is a Temple constructed to honor Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism. (The BIG 3) People visit it to worship Confucius, Kuan Yu and Yuehfei, who represent traditional Chinese virtues of loyalty, filial piety, compassion and righteousness. (Taken from my tour Bus information sheet)
The painting and colorful details are awe-inspiring. The architecture and roof lines are so Chinese. There are little statues lined up on the corners of the roof that completely tripped my fascination switch.

The Soundtrack of Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan

Muzak. The driver probably had one tape only on the bus ride to Sun Moon Lake. It featured a stuffy sounding alto sax and a harmonica, accompanied by orchestra, performing great pop hits of yesteryear. It was playing constantly, allowing me to enjoy such hits as Billy Joel's "Just the Way You Are," and The Carpenters' "Close to You." Some other great artists represented in today's musical montage were The Beatles (Yesterday), Tony Orlando and Dawn (Tie a Yellow Ribbon) and various composers of movie theme songs. But it wasn't only on the tour bus. Muzak is playing in the cabs, in lobbies, in elevators, in train stations. Such is my penance for forgetting to bring my ipod on this trip.

It was a great trip. Sun Moon Lake is so named because of it's shape. One end is round like the sun and the other is crescent shaped. It is divided in the middle by an island that has great significance for the local aboriginal people, the Thao.

However, in 1999, Taiwan experienced a massive destructive earth quake and the island sank, leaving only a very small bit of land still above water. Above is a diagram of how much of the island sank, and how much remains. It is now surrounded by a floating walkway of sorts, and people swarm there on the many tour boats, walk around for about 5 minutes and leave. Really, there's not much to see. There is a large sculpture of a white deer. The Thao used to chase the white deer to the island and then kill them.

This a bowl of steaming hot hard boiled eggs. They are cooked after being marinated in tea (and salt). I ate 2 of these hard boiled eggs. They are special because the old woman who sells them has been doing so since she was a teenager. She is in her 70's now. She gave me a warm smile when I bought her eggs. It could be that Westerners don't often partake. They were the best dang hard boiled eggs I have ever eaten! The black lumpy things in the bowl were mushrooms.

Lunch was served to us on a porch over looking the lake. We enjoyed local traditional cuisine. The wait staff kept bring plate after plate of delicious Thao dishes. It was tasty, no frills food that featured the local flora and fauna. Locally grown ferns, mushrooms, tiny fish from the lake (deep fried whole- yum) and locally raised meats were on the menu. The princess of the Thao tribe was our cook.

Sun Moon Lake continued

Sun Moon Lake



Sun Moon Lake is so very like any number of lakes in the Adirondack State Park in Northern New York State.




Lalu Island






Everything surrounding the actual Island is floating. No one is allowed to trod on the island itself.