Only in Japan

Yesterday, Robin and I loaded up his double bass, put it on a luggage-cart, rolled it up hill and down to the police Koban near our station, waited for a black car driven by some stranger's MOM whom we've never met, was waved at by the Mom, put Robin's somewhat fragile and expensive bass in the back of the car and watched it ride away up the hill and out of sight. As we turned and walked back home, Robin said, "Only in Japan!" Then we started to chuckle, then laugh as we realized the absurdity of what had just happened.

But this is Japan, and I just knew that Takeru, the stranger we had never met but had spoken to would deliver our bass to rehearsal on time, along with his tiny drum set, and all would be well. He did and it was.

Last night was the last real rehearsal for my portion of the Chiba Singer's up-coming October 11 concert. The Rutter Birthday Madrigals are really cool jazzy renditions of It was a Lover and His Lass, Draw on Sweet Night, Come Be My Love, My True Love Hath My heart and When Daisies Pied. Working on these Shakespearean texts with Japanese speakers has presented me with one of the greatest choral conducting challenges of my career. Last night we practiced the phrase, "Really live with me," over and over. This phrase presents multiple problems for them.
First of all...they don't have the sound "r" or "l" in their language, or at least they don't distinguish between the 2. It's a flip of the tongue. I also suspect that the "v" sound doesn't exist in Japanese. "V" turns almost always to "b." "Th" at the end of words often turns into an "s."

It's a worthy aim, to work toward authentic English diction as we sing these great movements together. They work so hard. Their concentration is impressive and their commitment to the group is astounding. They have really challenged themselves with this piece. Last evening, Robin and Takeru added their bass and drum accompaniment to the work. John Rutter didn't call for drums on this music. Pretty cheeky of me to be messing with Rutter, but Takeru has a music degree with a jazz concentration from U Conn, and is absolutely fabulous. I think Rutter wouldn't mind.

When we walked down and out of our station on the way home last night, there was Takeru, silhouetted in front of Family Mart, with the bass on the luggage cart, waiting for us.

Only in Japan.

Autumnal Equinox Festival

It's called Shubun No Hi. It's been going on for a couple of days, according to Nathan. I found out about it while he and I were in the living room today with the windows open. He heard the drums and the flute sound off in the distance and said, "There go the guys with no pants again!"

I questioned him about this, and apparently, he had seen several teams of people in their hapi coats, carrying shrines around the streets over the last 2 days. I was disappointed, because I really wanted to see these pantless guys and gals and get some photos to share. BTW: These shrine-carrying groups are not really pantless- I'm not sure why he called them that. Sometimes they wear short pants under their coats. Their coats match, as do their headbands.

A little later, as I was getting ready to ride my bike to the store for groceries, I heard drums and music up the street. I left my bike out front and wandered up to the next corner to take a look. Lo and behold, there was a parade made up mostly of very small children holding on to a rope and shouting together in rhythm. There were some old guys carrying and beating a taiko drum and others following carrying a small shrine. I suspect it was a pre-school event to mark the beginning of Fall. There were lots of moms and strollers as well.

Then this evening, I heard it again...I grabbed my camera even though it was almost dark out. This time down the street and around the first corner. What a beautiful sight! Adults, with a beautiful golden shrine, all lit up, were jiggling their way down the street toward me. I will tell you that the main difference between the kid and adult offering was the reek of alcohol from the team of carriers! I took a video of their approach and turn at the corner. I hope I can figure out how to post it here.

The Japanese love their seasons. Their celebrations are so colorful and so filled with joy.

September 23, 2008 Yoyogi-uehara

The guy carrying the stool is also clicking wooden sticks- they make a very loud distinctive clave type of sound, so maybe they are made of rosewood. You can hear them at the sumo matches also. It is a very traditional Japanese sound.

It was fairly warm cool out, so these guys and gals were working hard and sweating. They were shouting repeatedly and stepping in rhythm.

You can't really see it, but the sun was setting behind them up the street. It was a stunning sight. The camera didn't do it justice.

This was the scene as I was walking home around 5:00 this afternoon.

Nathan

Nathan and I have been spending time together this week before he goes to New Zealand on Sunday. He seems to view me less like the demonic figure I think he thinks I used to be. I guess that's the only way I can rationally explain the rift that happened between the two of us. I have a theory that young people enter a dark winding cave when they go through adolescence. They stay in there for a time until they find their way out. There is no map, and they have to feel their way around in the dark for a while, but most emerge safely. I had a discussion with a friend this summer about this theory. She seems to think that if the child is a good kid before they enter this dark place (stable family, happy, consistently loved and cared for) they will emerge unscathed. Some teens are in the dark longer than others. Some seem to just waltz through easily, while others seem to get lost for years. We parents feel pretty helpless and worry a lot while peering fearfully into the tunnel. Our kids seem lost in the dark to us.

Surprise! The last couple of days have been really enjoyable. Maybe his turning 18 was truly a turning point. Perhaps it's not he, but I've changed. Who knows? Maybe it's the fact that he is legally responsible for himself now that he's 18. Whatever it is, I hope it lasts. Nathan is a cool guy.

When Robin and I were first married and living in Texas, we went to a chili cook-off at the house of a guy Robin worked with. We were in the land of jalapeno peppers, beer, pick up trucks and Good Ol' Boys, and we knew it. Or, if we didn't, we sure became aware of it when were told of our host's philosophy of child-rearing.

"Keep em' alive 'till they're 18, then kick 'em out of the house!"

Robin and I were more than a little shocked by this view. But we've never forgotten it, and have laughed over this for more than 20 years.

In New Zealand, Nathan will be enrolled in the National Outdoor Leadership School. He'll be earning college credit. He will be tested physically, mentally and spiritually in the wilderness. I know it will change his life. He's excited about it. We're excited about it. I don't sense any apprehension on his part. He's a pretty cool customer. Must be because he's a pretty cool guy.

Earthquake!

This morning at about 7:17, I was rudely roused from my slumber by an earthquake. It was a pretty hard bump. My eyes opened up enough to see our wall mirror bouncing around and to feel the hard shaking, followed by a rumble that faded away. It originated about 2o miles ESE of Tokyo, and about 34 miles deep. The closest one I've ever felt.

Just a few nights ago, I had been reading about earthquakes and had found several items on-line about the "Tokai Earthquake." Roughly translated, Tokai means...THE BIG ONE. Well, actually Tokai is a region, right under the Shizuoka Corning plant, that is an important active subduction zone. But you still can just call it BIG ONE. Do a Google search on "Tokai Earthquake" and see what you find. It's a little frightening. The government of Japan has been preparing for it, all the time while Tokyo has grown to become a megalopolis of millions of people. The damage and death estimates are staggering. Interestingly enough there is also speculation as to what the global economic repercussion would be. Yowza.

I just hope I'm not still here when it hits.

Shibuya crossing under the rain

Shibuya crossing under the rain
Originally uploaded by mikeintokyo

Singing in the rain and Oktoberfest

Today I met with 3 friends who are singers. There were 4 of us; myself, Terry, Regine, and Anna. We will form an SSAA quartet. I have ordered some music for us and I am using some of the music that my Tburg quartet used. I miss singing with Anne, Geri and Sally so much, I just had to create some kind of singing outlet. The very coolest thing is that our little Tokyo group represents 3 countries: France, Sweden and USA. It is going to be very enjoyable.

It started raining while we were at Terry's apartment. (We meet there because she has a "live" room to sing in AND a beautiful grand piano.) Anyway, as usual I didn't have my umbrella with me, so I got soaked on my way home. So soaked that my clothes were sticking to me, my hair was plastered to my face and water was dripping in my eyes. There were a couple of older women sitting on the steps at the National Electronics store by my station, waiting out the worst of it, and they chuckled at my approach. One of them smiled and tentatively offered me her umbrella. A very kind gesture, I thought. I laughed and said "No thank you." I think they thought I was nuts. It was delightful to walk in the rain, to get completely soaked and to feel unencumbered by social convention. (and umbrella!)

As soon as there is a suggestion of a sprinkle here, the Japanese open up their umbrellas- so many umbrellas, and such a variety. I think they are like cats in that they don't like to get wet. The scene at a major crossing during a rainy day is rather beautiful. It's a sea of umbrellas moving en masse, moving like some gigantic organic creature, and then slowly dissipating up and down the sidewalks. AND store keepers put them out on the street. You can buy a decent working umbrella here for about 3 dollars on a rainy day.

Then when I got home, I checked my email, to find a link from the Tokyo Gaijin Group to next week's Oktoberfest. So I clicked on the link, and there was an ad for the Asahi Oktoberfest in Hibiya Park. But it cracks me up...the pictures- Helga is there in lederhosen, along with others who look vaguely German. The poster is all in Japanese.

http://www.oktoberfest.jp/index.html

This is such an interesting multi-national city. It is becoming more and more so. I was talking with some friends the other day who were commenting on how rapidly things are changing in Japan. This will be a very different country in 10 years. I remember once when traveling was pretty new to Robin, he called from China. He wanted to tell me he was in Shanghai, in an Irish Pub, celebrating Oktoberfest with folks in lederhosen, drinking German beer and eating sausages. It is during those experiences when you must step back, look at where you are and think to yourself..."I must remember this. It may never happen again!"

March of the Umbrellas at Shibuya Crossing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoUOcg8LnR0

I went looking for a picture, and found a youtube video to share. It is taken from a Starbucks second story seating area that obviously overlooks the crossing. Robin and I stopped in there last year on a hot hot day.

This gives you an idea of what I was talking about.

No pictures yet...sorry.

I apologize. I haven't been taking my camera with me. I have seen fabulous flowers in Yoyogi Koen, and a gorgeous sunset from a 42nd story window. I have seen the most ridiculous and outrageous outfits on young women. One of them made me laugh. It was something I would have put on myself to make people laugh for Halloween. I have seen little Bo Peep-like outfits. Today while I was in a thick crowd walking up stairs from a metro platform, a guy just stepped out of his shoe. I kept going, but I can only imagine the change in pedestrian flow around the poor guy. How embarrassing. I have seen little tiny ancient bent over women, teeny tiny dogs, lots of very interesting shoes, girls and boys in school uniforms, cute little kids sleeping in strollers. I have smelled the alcohol saturated males on the train at all times of day. I have been stared at, I have had one woman look at me and shake her head like, "What is that woman thinking?" I have received and given a smile to an older woman (yippee) on the street. I have found yet another new station and met my ride on time. I rehearsed the Chiba singers for many hours last Saturday. I have been to yoga, met my new neighbors, and played Taiko drums.

I must be in Japan.

Pictures to follow.

Goodbye Summer!

goodbye summer
goodbye home
goodbye paint cans and digging in loam

goodbye stars
goodbye friends
goodbye laughing that never ends

goodbye rim trail
goodbye lake
goodbye dog walks I got to take

goodbye sunsets
goodbye cool
goodbye blisters from my clipping tool

goodbye easy
goodbye Matt
when it gets cold please wear a hat!

That's my feeble attempt at poetry. Bad poetry at that. I was trying to capture the glory of my summer experience. I think it was heightened by the weather in the last few weeks. Fantastic. I enjoyed bonfires, starry skies, time with friends and family and gorgeous surroundings.

I am now back in Tokyo. I arrived Monday night, and Robin has left for Taiwan this morning and will be gone for 10 days. Hardly seems fair. I am here alone, but am determined to make the best of it. Today I had the opportunity to just rest, be alone, get a few things done, read my book and take a nap. My loving husband took great care of me before he left. He shopped, cooked me dinner and put away left-overs so that I didn't have to do much of anything at all today. Jet lag takes a full couple of weeks to completely get over, so I will ease into life here.

Tomorrow morning I will go walking with some friends and catch up on their summer stories. One friend, Regine, went to Mongolia with her family for vacation. I can't wait to hear about it. So as school starts in the 'Burg and friends reconnect, so it will happen here.